Beaufort, NC
We left Beaufort, SC July 4th missing the fireworks on land, but we we had the best seat in the house for the Charleston show which was visible just above the horizon. We had planned to follow spring up the coast; it is now summer, but we are going up the coast. We had planned to speed up the coast, but every place at which we arrive is even more delightful than the last So much for speed; so much for plans. We will get someplace-sometime.
It took 4 hrs. against the current to get out of the estuary, but
we were rewarded with 10-15 knot winds on the beam & 1 ft. seas. We sat back & relaxed knowing that we will pay for every minute of good sailing. No cynics, we.
After many hours of perfect sailing, we lots the wind. Pulled in the jib & left the mainsail up to flop & to alleviate the swell effects. Dozens of dolphin performed around Grace at regular intervals. Jerry says my voice attracts them, but I find the clucking & kissing sounds bring them right up to Grace. They jump & dive as if they are being paid to perform.
While on watch, I could hear the slapping & crashing of flying fish that had mistakenly thought Grace would be a refuge. Because of our rule about not leaving the cockpit while on watch alone, I used my longest handled spatula to reach over the side & scoop them over the side. I like to think they were the lucky ones.
During my watch we met & passed 4 huge ships. It's always a challenge not to wake Jerry and cry, "Help" Upon their approach, I set my help parameters according to the rings on the radar & visual sighting. I never can tell distances with just lights on the ocean. They always seem nearer. Jerry got to sleep through all of them this night. When 2 are approaching at the same time from the same direction, they are probably considering each other. Little you from the other direction are the unknown. When the blips are clear & there are no lights on the horizon, it's time to hit the FAO Schwartz jellybeans & hope there are plenty of fizzies.
The next afternoon we passed Frying Pan Shoals heading for Cape Fear. We began to hear weather forecasts with localized weather 30-40 knots winds & heavy rain. We battened down the hatches, took down the mainsail & waited. Time to pay for the good sailing.
Nothing. I went down to sleep & when I came back up the sky was black-black-black. Jerry tried to call the Coast Guard for an update. They seemed to know nothing, but the winds went rapidly from 5 knots to 40+ . Grace sat solid , like a rock in the middle of the ocean, & I curled up in the corner of the dodger & held on. Jerry said, "Are you all right?" I said, "Yes" being a martyr then "No!" Fortunately, the seas remained small & built gradually. I always think that if you can put up with something for 20 min. it becomes the norm. Even the slamming of Grace's bow when she drops off a wave is norm because I know she handles it with grace & skill. I watched the anemometer constantly to revel in each drop in wind speed. After about an hr. we're back to 5 knots, but we are right on the storm's track, so the pounding continues most of the night.
The next morning we sail into Beaufort, NC, but too near another wonderful port and dock. The dockmaster believes me when I tell him on the radio that she is heavy & hard to handle. He puts us on a floating, outside dock close to the showers.
We are very close to Cape Hattaras, just inside the outer banks, the boneyard of boats. From here to Norfolk, we will move slowly across Pamlico Sound & Albemarle Sound following the Intracoastal Waterway for 200 miles.
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- July 7, 2002